I often need to run errands (mainly shopping) on my way home from work, and I can't carry any payload on my tri bike. I'm looking at something that has a rear rack, and/or lets me ride vertical enough to wear a backpack.
I looked at commuter bikes, but I decided I wanted to be able to get to work without needing to take a shower upon arrival, simply because bike time plus shower time would take too large a chunk out of my day. The hills between home and work would guarantee lots of sweat, even when taking it easy in low gears.
So I decided to get an ebike. I could use higher power assist on the way in to work to limit sweating, then back off the assist and get a workout on the way home. And carry any amount of payload. And the power assist would flatten the hills, letting my effort be level and continuous (aside from stop signs and lights).
But which ebike? I went to a few local shops, but anything that wasn't a toy started at $3000 and went stratospheric from there. I wanted to be in the $1500-$2000 range. But the shop visits did give me a great education on the wide array of ebike types, and the various technologies available.
The first choice was between a mid-motor and a hub-motor. Mid-motors apply power at the crank, meaning the chain, chainring, and rear sprockets take a beating. Even upgraded and hardened components can wear quickly. I decided a hub-motor was the way to go, even though mid motors are truly tiny and efficient (going through the bike's drivetrain permits a narrower motor speed range).
Then there are different types of hub-motors: Direct drive and geared. The direct drive motors are big and heavy, but they are very quiet and can even offer regenerative braking. Geared motors have higher starting torque (useful to get away from a stop), but always have their gears turning, even though the motor has a clutch, meaning they are slightly tougher to pedal with the motor off.
I decided I wanted a gear motor mainly for the reduced weight, higher torque, and better looks.
Then comes wheel diameter and tire width. I wanted larger wheels to more easily ride over bumps and potholes, and with the choice being either 26" or 29"/700C, that decision was easy, but I was willing to change my mind if there was a great deal to be had on an ebike with 26" wheels.
A major (huge, massive, enormous) consideration is the battery capacity (in Watt-hours). I wanted to have more than enough power to use the motor both ways on my commute (if necessary), which meant around a 600 Wh battery, preferably closer to 1 KWh to completely avoid range anxiety when carrying any significant payload.
Next comes how the power is controlled. There are three main ways: A throttle lever, a cadence sensor, and a torque/power sensor. I decided I should get a bike with all three, just to ensure I will have no regrets.
And, of course, there are a zillion other items to have on an ebike wish-list:
- As many cogs on the rear cassette as possible, with as wide a range as possible (7 minimum, 9 or more desired, 11-32 or better - pretty much everyone has 52 in front)
- Fenders
- Rear rack, preferably with pannier mounts
- Rear bag with fold-out panniers (always an add-on, but this is a wish-list)
- Adjustable stem, so fit won't be an issue
- Pedals with Power Grips or straps, but not toe clips (no need for bike shoes)
- Puncture-resistant tires (ebikes are heavy)
- Kickstand (ebikes are heavy)
- Front suspension (ebikes go faster on average, so the bumps are rougher)
- Rear or seatpost suspension (to help protect and isolate my failing back)
- Mirrors (again, everything happens faster when you go faster, so situational awareness is vital)
- Headlight powered by the ebike's battery, 1000 lumens preferred
- A bright tail light with multiple modes (at least blink and steady)
- Wheel reflectors, preferably also in the tire sidewalls (side visibility)
- Wheel blinky-lights, for extra visibility in dim/dark conditions (add-on, of course)
- Disk brakes front and rear, preferably hydraulic, for better performance when wet
- An informative display (text, not just LEDs)
- Good control over the power assist modes, preferably via a configurable computer
- Reputable name-brand components
- A useful warranty
- Local service/support
Whew! Of course, no single ebike on the market meets my every wish, so I added the cost of after-market options to my shopping list, to get the total price for each bike on an equivalent basis, independent of the manufacturer's specific feature list.
This quickly priced all name-brand ebikes right off my list, along with all local showroom retailers. I immediately knew I would be going into the online market.
My searches revealed an enormous number of online ebike retailers, each touting the unique features of their product, but in reality most were rebranding the same generic Chinese ebikes. The ebikes were of decent enough quality once you passed $1200, but the detailed shopping quickly became overwhelming.
So I decided to restrict myself to US-based companies in business for at least 5 years, to ensure a focus on value, quality and support. This made my search almost trivial!
I found only two companies with extremely competitive products in my $1500-$2000 price range: Rad Power Bikes out of Seattle, and San Diego's own Juiced Bikes. Specifically, the RadCity and the CrossCurrent models, respectively.
The RadCity offered a slightly better value proposition, but during my search Juiced Bikes started a clearance sale on the CrossCurrent S to make room for the new CrossCurrent X. The RadCity and the CrossCurrent S both were now priced at $1500.
After considering the relative merits of each bike, I decided the CrossCurrent S squeaked ahead for the win. With Juiced Bikes being local, I set up an appointment to get a test ride: Juiced has no showroom and no retailers, but during working hours they do offer appointments to locals (no weekend hours).
I arrived at Juiced Bikes only to immediately learn that their entire stock of CrossCurrent S bikes in my size had already sold out. There weren't even any return, demo or dinged bikes available.
But there was a single CrossCurrent X in my size that couldn't be sold as new due to some scratches on the frame. They were initially asking full price minus only a $100 ding discount, and a $100 rebate of the shipping costs. This was still beyond my budget, but as we were talking a manager walked by and mentioned the Father's Day Sale had launched on the website literally just an hour before, and that last discount let me squeak within my budget.
Go ahead and take a look at the specs for the CrossCurrent X. It's truly a beast of an ebike, a great value even at full retail price. As an added bonus, compared to both the RadCity and CrossCurrent S, the CrossCurrent X ticked off a few more items on my wish-list, meaning my total Amazon shopping trip was under $200.
No, I didn't wait for the Amazon stuff to arrive. The next morning I went on a 30 mile ride to familiarize myself with the ebike in its "as built" state. To say I was "pleasantly surprised" would be an understatement.
I was blown away. First, the pedal assist didn't change the power I put into the pedals: That was still all up to me and my legs. What pedal assist changed was how fast I went for my effort. Sure, if I minimized my effort I'd still get where I was going, but if I put in a normal workout-level effort for the same duration, I'd simply go faster and further.
Riding on my tri bike in aero on a straight flat road with no wind, my normal 200 watt endurance output would let me ride at 21 mph, sustained. On a heavy commuter bike sitting vertically, that same 200 watts would get me maybe 14 mph, likely less. With pedal assist on the third level (of 7), I'm back at 21 mph and still doing 200 watts through my legs!
Only now I'm sitting with my torso nearly vertical, on a cushy saddle, wearing street clothes. I don't care about drag: That's the battery's job, to make drag "go away" while I'm working hard. And when I want to kick back and cruise, the motor can output 200 watts more, and I can stay at 20 mph without having to peddle.
Suh-weet! First, it means I no longer care if I over-do it and bonk: No suffering on the rest of the ride. This is important when I need to get somewhere on time after a ride. Plus it lets me immediately start recovering, instead of going deeper into the bonk.
Perhaps the most astounding thing the ebike provides is that, so far as my legs are concerned, it let's me put the hills where I want them! More like a CompuTrainer class or Peloton session that actually goes somewhere, except with downhills (though I suppose I could ride the brakes to "flatten" them). Between the gear selection and the assist level, I can exercise me legs almost independently of the terrain.
What this really means is I'm selling my mag-trainer. I despise time on the trainer, though I do tolerate it. Once in a while. OK, rarely. This is despite having a great trainer and a separate trainer rear wheel. My ebike is my trainer that goes somewhere.
Perhaps the most astounding thing the ebike provides is that, so far as my legs are concerned, it let's me put the hills where I want them! More like a CompuTrainer class or Peloton session that actually goes somewhere, except with downhills (though I suppose I could ride the brakes to "flatten" them). Between the gear selection and the assist level, I can exercise me legs almost independently of the terrain.
What this really means is I'm selling my mag-trainer. I despise time on the trainer, though I do tolerate it. Once in a while. OK, rarely. This is despite having a great trainer and a separate trainer rear wheel. My ebike is my trainer that goes somewhere.
More importantly, I feel much safer sitting vertically, where seeing everything around me gets easier, as does drinking water or having a gel. Another safety aspect is my increased speed keeps me closer to traffic speed, especially when climbing hills, reducing the risk of getting hit from behind (and cut-off in front).
My test ride took me to work and back, and to visit friends, so I have a feel for the roads on my commute, though not yet during morning rush hour, nor in the evening during dusk or after sunset. That ride will happen after my Amazon order arrives and I get the bike the way I want it.
I did 200 watts only during the first 10 miles, using the next 20 to exercise the bike's higher assist modes. Despite heavy use, that ride consumed less than 1/4 of the battery capacity. That equates to over a 100 mile range! Assuming, of course, those little battery bars are linear.
Comments, questions? Ask away!
